Cape Santa Maria, Long Island’s northernmost landfall, is twenty-seven miles northeast of George Town, Exuma and roughly the same distance from Devil’s Point on Cat Island. From the Cape to South End, the island snakes for almost eighty miles, and is never more than four miles wide.

The island is one of stunning contrasts in geography. The west coast is composed of sandy flats, powdery-white beaches, and calm turquoise-colored bays, while the east coast consists of harsh reefs and chalk-white cliffs that plunge into often wild dark blue waters. Divided by the Tropic of Cancer, the island’s terrain varies from the dramatic limestone cliffs in the north and south, to rolling hillsides, to swampland, to stark white flatlands where salt is produced. The island is thought to be one of Columbus’ early stops, probably his third, after San Salvador and Rum Cay. The Arawak Indians called the island Yuma; Columbus named it Fernandina, out of respect for his Spanish sponsor.

American Loyalists from the Carolinas settled on Long Island with their slaves in 1790. Plantations were built, and more than four thousand acres were planted with cotton. Rich soil made cotton-growing more successful here than on any of the other Out Islands. With the abolition of slavery, however, the plantations failed. Today, Loyalist buildings stand in ruin, while agriculture is still a significant part of daily life.

Pothole farming is the most popular method of growing a variety of crops, from peas, squash, and corn, to bananas, pineapples and other fruits. While many natural potholes are used, locals also blast holes in the rocky soil to create additional “fields.” Along with farming, residents make a living from raising cattle, sheep, goats and pigs.

Tourism is another reason why prosperity is growing on Long Island, and why the population has grown to over five thousand permanent residents. The two major resorts, Stella Maris Resort Club and Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort, are attracting more and more visitors to this uniquely beautiful island. Fishing, diving, snorkeling, and enjoying the tropical atmosphere are the key ingredients.

More than one hundred years ago, settlers built a carriage road running the length of the island. These people understood that commerce and development required good communication and transportation routes. The island’s thirty-five farming towns and settlements are situated along the road and around the harbors and anchorages. Queens Highway has been recently resurfaced to provide smooth driving from Columbus Cove to South End.

Renting a car and driving the length of the island is something we recommend. You’ll have an opportunity to see many historical sights, including Loyalist and Arawak ruins, and several monuments to Christopher Columbus. You’ll also be able to stop off at a number of immaculate beaches, blue holes, and deserted flats where you can wade in and start casting to tailing bonefish.

Most tourists traveling to Long Island stay at either Stella Maris Resort Club or Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort. Flying into Stella Maris airport is the way to go, as flying into Deadman’s Cay airport will mean a $120 or more taxi ride to reach the resorts. Bahamasair flies most days from Nassau to Stella Maris. Island Express usually flies from Ft. Lauderdale to Stella Maris Thursday through Sunday. Stella Maris has its own charter flights from George Town, Exuma and from Nassau.

When you arrive at Stella Maris Airport you’ll find taxis waiting to take you to any destination. If you’re staying at one of the resorts you won’t need a car, but we recommend renting one for at least a day or two to explore the island on your own. Cars and scooters can be rented through the resorts or through Taylor’s Rentals.

You will want to fly into Deadman’s Cay Airport if you have booked a fly fishing package to this area, or if you are staying in the Clarence Town area. Taxis are usually waiting for every Bahamasair flight, and can take you wherever you’re staying. You can rent a car in advance, or rent one after arrival. If you’re not on a bonefishing package, or if you’re staying around Clarence Town, you will need a car.

A mini-peninsula juts out toward the southwest here, separating Glenton Sound from Adderley’s Bay. The mangrove swamps and shorelines create good bonefish habitat in this area. Anglers can fish the sound or the bay on their own without a boat, though a boat will provide access to more flats. These light-bottomed flats are often glass calm, especially in the mornings and evenings. When the low incoming tide is early or late, you can cast to tailing fish in ideal conditions.

A little farther south is Stella Maris, which is composed of a marina, airstrip, and plantation-style resort complex. Boaters cruising down from the north, or east from the Exumas, will pass Dove Cay en route to the small man-made harbor and marina. Twelve slips are available for visiting boaters, and calling ahead for space is necessary. Use VHF Channel 16. Full services include fuel, petroleum products, electricity, water, ice, showers, and laundromat.

The airstrip and resort are north of the marina. The resort itself sits on a hill overlooking the ruggedly beautiful eastern shore, with aquamarine water washing over dark coral reefs. The main clubhouse features an immaculate restaurant, bar, game room, satellite TV area, and gift shop. The spacious air-conditioned hotel rooms and one-bedroom cottages are situated around the clubhouse. Two, three and four bedroom beach houses, several with private pools, are also available for rent. Three freshwater swimming pools and a small beach round out the amenities.

The atmosphere at Stella Maris is laid back, but also festive, and the staff, led by owner/operators Jorg Friese and Peter Kuska, is extremely helpful and friendly. Monday nights feature the Out Island Cave Party, a lively event featuring a barbecue buffet, live band, and dancing. On Wednesday nights guests party on with special rum punches and another barbecue. On occasion these party nights are switched around and special events are added. Diving and snorkeling excursions are available every day, as is complimentary transportation to Cape Santa Maria and other beaches. All you have to do is sign up. Serious divers will want to try the wall dives off Conception Island, or one of the blue hole dives.

Anglers staying at Stella Maris can walk over to fish Adderley Bay, or take a rod to one of the eastern snorkeling beaches and catch jacks, snappers and grouper on Clouser Minnows. The resort can arrange for bonefishing guides, or for reef and offshore fishing charters. James “Docky” Smith works for Stella Maris and is one of the best guides on the island. If you want to book Docky, you will need to do it well in advance.

Accomodation
Stella Maris Resort Club - Stella Maris
This resort sits on a green bluff overlooking the deep blue Atlantic Ocean. Deluxe air-conditioned accommodations include twenty rooms, twelve one-bedroom cottages, seven two-bedroom cottages, and four houses. These accommodations range from spacious and comfortable to luxurious. Houses include full kitchens, and some have private pools. Resort amenities feature a great dining room and fun bar, satellite TV, three pools, bicycles, sailing, snorkeling, ping pong, boating, waterskiing, a complete dive shop, and complimentary shuttles to area beaches. Guest activities include complimentary island excursions, boat cruises to remote beaches, and special parties several nights a week. Owner/operators Jorg Friese, Peter Kuska, their families and staff, all go out of their way to provide superior guest services. We highly recommend this resort for an all-around beach and sun vacation.

Season: October through July.
Suitable For: Anglers and non-anglers.

Optional Activities: The resort offers flats, reef, and offshore fishing. James “Docky” Smith is the head guide, and one of the best guides on the island. Flats skiffs are used to access the nearby flats, with wading a priority here when the tide is right. It is only a short walk to some very good flats for anglers who want to fish on their own. The Stella Maris marina offers most services for boaters. The dive shop is the best on the island, and suited to beginners or experts. The resort arranges for overnight diving excursions to Conception Island.
What’s Included: As much or as little as you want. Complete bonefishing packages are available that include deluxe accommodations, meals, guided fishing, and Bahamian taxes. Custom packages can include all types of fishing, mixing flats, reefs, and/or offshore. The resort offers its own air charter service from Nassau and George Town, Exuma.
Not Included: You can book accommodations only, then choose daily activities and meals as you go. Air fare to/from Stella Maris. Taxis meet you at the Stella Maris airport for the short trip to the resort.
Pricing: On application.
Contact: Reservations and information - 800.426.0466 or 242.338.2051. Fax - 954.359.8238 or 242.338.2052.
Email: smrc@stellamarisresort.com.
Internet: www.stellamarisresort.com .

For more great information on fly fishing The Bahamas see:
Mini guide to fly fishing The Bahamas - Andros Island Mini guide to fly fishing The Bahamas - Eleuthera, Spanish Wells & Harbour Island Mini guide to fly fishing The Bahamas - Abaco

Stephen and Kim Vletas co-founded the famous Westbank Anglers in 1986 in Jackson, Wyoming and have since also opened stores in Dallas and Charlotte. They believe the only way to write successful travel books is to visit and study each location personally, so, for six to eight weeks every year they travel to The Bahamas to gain the intimate knowledge of fisheries, guides, and all the important details of island life that abound in their books. Check out their website at www.bahamasflyfishingguide.com .