Ask a bass angler his favorite method of bass fishing and, unfotunately, few will answer fly-fishing.
Some fishermen feel that fly-fishing is difficult–
it’s not, you’ll be surprised at how quickly it is to learn.
Others think fly-fishing is expensive– it can be;
however, keeping it simple and low-cost does not lessen its
enjoyment.
If, you try fly-fishing and enjoy it as much as I do
I’m sure you”ll have more than one outfit and I say spend
what you can afford. However, while you’re experimenting, I
suggest a good, low-cost, basic outfit.
Recommende line size is printed on fly rods: an 8-1/2-
foot fiberglass rod for a #8 line and costing $25 to $35 is
a good first choice.
A single-action reel– $20 to $30– large enough to
hold a #8 line and at least 25 yards of backing– braided
line wound on the reel under the fly line; I use 30-pound
dacron.

I’ve never had a bass take out the entire fly line;
however, it’s a good idea to put backing on all fly reels
as it prevents coils in the fly line. The reel manual may
give the amount of backing to use. If not, tie on 30 yards
(Fig.1) and the fly line (Fig.2). The reel spool should be filled to about 1/4-inch from the edge– remove or add
backing as needed.
You’ll need a #8, floating, fly line; I suggest a
quality weight-forward or bass-bug, tapered line which
will cost $25 to $35. It may seem expensive, but a good line
will last several years.
A monofilament leader is connected to the fly line. The
most common lengths are 7-1/2, 9 and 12-foot. Tippet size and strength are clearly marked on the package. Tippet size
is uniform, but the strength will vary depending on the
manufacturer. Buy a 7-1/2-foot leader with a tippet size of
0X and a strength of 8 to 10-pound test– the stonger the
better.
Different types of connectors are available for
attaching leaders; ask your tackle dealer. If you’d rather
tie it on; the nail knot (Fig.3) is the prefered knot.
You’ll also need a spool of 8-pound leader material;
tie on (Fig.4) a 1-1/2-foot length to the leader. This is
so you can change this tippet, when it gets short, instead

of the whole leader.
That completes the outfit– except of course, for the
flies. I use deer-hair bugs, almost exclusively, because I
enjoy making them; buy a couple and a few cork poppers in
different sizes. Also get two panfish-size poppers– the
cheapest you can find. Add a few streamers: Muddler Minnows
and any of the marabou patterns in sizes 2 and 4 will make a good start.
While shopping, I’m sure you’ll see a lot of other
equipment and flies; but hold off buying any. Once you get
invoved in fly-fishing you’ll know better what is needed
for your particular type of fishing.
You’re ready to assemble and learn to use your gear. If
you know a fly-fisherman, ask him to teach you the basics of casting. In fact, contact him before purchasing your tackle
and he may help select and assemble it. The outfit I
described is my opinion; if he fishes for bass in your area
he may have some helpful suggestions. The advaantage of a
teacher is that he can help solve any problems that develop.
If nobody is available; you’ll have to depend on a
video or book. A video, unless you can rent one, will be more costly. The local library should have a book and most
fly-fishing books have excellent chapters on casting.

You don’t have to learn on water; an open field or your
yard, if large enough, will do fine.
Once your outfit is together, tie on (Fig.5) one of
those panfish poppers– learning to cast is easier with a smaller fly. The reason for a cheap one is that you should
cut the hook a short distance behind the body. This is so,
if learning on grass; the fly won’t hang up. If learning on
water, you won’t catch fish– for now, concentrate on
casting.
When you can handle 25 feet of line and the leader,
it’s time to tie on the other small popper and catch some fish. Most ponds are loaded with panfish; in the beginning,
feeling fish on the line as often as possible is good practice and you’ll have fun doing it.
I do most of my fly-fishing along the shoreline in
shallow water. Cast the popper near cover and let it sit still for ten seconds, twitch it and wait again; repeat this
a few times and cast again. Now use a different retrieve–
anything from a slow crawl to popping it as fast as you can;
after a few cast, try another piece of cover. Don’t move too
fast– I try to cover as much of the shoreline as possible;
of couse whether I’m wading, fishing from shore or from a
boat will affect this.

These small poppers will catch bass; however, when you
want to concentrate on bass it’s time to switch to a bigger popper and fish it in the same manner. Usually working the
shoreline supplies all the action needed.
When fishing the shallows is slow I tie on a streamer
and try a little deeper water. Cast about ten feet beyond a
likely spot; try a few cast– varying the retrieve.
There are sink-tip and full-sinking lines as well as
special flies for fishing deeper water. However, when the
depth nears the six-foot level, I prefer to switch to
spinning or baitcasting gear.
Regardless of what tackle you now use for bass, I’m
sure a fly-fishing outfit will add pleasure and possibly
more fish to future outings. I hope you try it and enjoy it.
Good luck.