Poland is not exactly the first fly fishing destination that springs to mind when anglers consider a short break in Europe. But that could all change this year - thanks to the first group excursion organised by a British travel agency, and the fact that it’s the venue for the 2005 European Fly Fishing Championships. The Poles are regarded as top class fly fishermen and, after experiencing three days on the River San in the south eastern region, I can understand why.

This massive freestone river winds it way through countryside of lush fields and forested hills close to the Ukrainian and Latvian borders. Not much has changed here for centuries: The peasant way of life continues with workers toiling the soil by hand, building haystacks, with the occasional horse and cart working alongside the tractor. The houses were more modern than I expected but, with the lack of cars and people and the vast areas of unspoilt countryside, I had a strong sense of how England used to be a hundred years ago.

Anglers fly to Krakow first where there is always activity

Since it was my job to take a group of anglers on an exploratory trip to Poland I was a little nervous. I had no idea what to expect, apart from what I had been told by my Polish contact, Wojtek. Was their idea of top quality fly fishing the same as ours? Eight hours later and my fears had gone. By the end of our first day most of the group had caught well over 30 fish; had waded an endless mix of shallow runs and deep slow water, and countless grayling and trout had risen obligingly to the fly.

Ham and cheese
After a good night’s sleep in our basic accommodation - a large village house - our first day began with a strong coffee and plates of cheese and ham. Within 20 minutes of leaving the lodge, our vehicle made its way down a narrow bumpy track towards the River San. The seven of us sensed the adventure and excitement of fishing a new destination as we caught glimpses, through the dense woodland, of water tumbling over rocks and swirling into deep pools.

Using a 4 weight Sage XP, the finest fish I brought to the net was a 1 3/4lb brown trout. Tucking into a riverside picnic of ham and cheese sandwiches my friend and colleague, Jim, declared that it was turning into one of his best days ever. That night, after a plate full of cheesy dumplings and a shot of vodka or two he confirmed that, with over 80 fish to his name, it most certainly had been his best. This is ultimate wild trout fishing - trophy hunters will not be impressed but the keen angler who loves to catch fish of any size on the fly will love it.

Our second day proved to be harder work. It was just as well that we stocked up with a big breakfast (of ham and cheese!) because there was a lot of wading to be done. The massive river offers such a variety of fishing conditions that, each time you approach it from an alternative access point, it is as if you are on different water.

Every day offered a new experience. This time we were faced with a wide, fast running current down the middle of the river - full of oxygen and hard fighting grayling. Deep pools along the bank offered the promise of hungry browns lurking in the depths. Sure enough, as I started setting up my rod, I spotted a good size fish rising underneath some overhanging branches on the far bank. I stealthily waded across and put my first cast right over the feeding station. Bang! It rose, I struck, I lost. It was a brown of at least 2lb - a great start to the day. However, it turned into a hot morning and the lack of a hatch made it very unproductive.

Cheese and ham
The afternoon brought more ham and cheese and a touch of heavy rain. The dull weather heralded an improvement in the fishing and we caught lots of small fish and the occasional good one in the fast runs. It was so rewarding experimenting with tactics; I adopted the cocktail style of a small PTN suspended beneath my Yellow Humpy. Jerek, my guide, frowned when he saw my Humpy - far too big compared to their very lightly dressed dry flies - but it worked almost like clockwork; every time I hooked a fish it was always a brown on the dry and a grayling on the nymph. As I made my way upstream, I could hear my fellow anglers behind me laughing aloud as yet another fish snapped at their fly.

Bracing myself for yet more ham and cheese the next morning, I did a double take when I spotted a vast bowl of scrambled eggs on the table. It had cheese in it of course - but the change was most welcome. I was to discover later that trout, just like humans, welcome a change in cuisine too. I admit to not being a great entomologist and I’m often bamboozled by the enthusiasts who rattle out the “olive-dun-spinner-sedge” speak. On most waters I have a good success rate with my favourites: Wulff, Humpy, Beacon Beige, PTN, and Hare’s Ear. But after my lunch of (yes, you guessed it) I enjoyed a spell of success casting my fly around boulders and over fast running glides to rising fish.

The legendary Polish fly tier, Kuba, had supplied us each with a box of his lightly dressed Olives, CDC and Para Olives in sizes 16 and 14; they were deadly and so well made that they lasted numerous attacks. I had assumed that, like humans with ham and cheese sandwiches, hungry fish will eat anything. Not so. All of a sudden the fish went off my fly and, after a few minutes of casting in vain, I spotted a fly break through the surface and flutter towards me. I caught it in the cup of my hand and it patiently waited as I analysed its form and colour. I opened Kuba’s box - spotted something similar and started to catch fish again. I had matched the hatch. Isn’t that what fishing is all about?

San to savor
The River San is a rare phenomenon in Poland. It is guarded by bailiffs and pursues a strict catch and release policy. We did see others fishing but it will take many years and hundreds of anglers to put this vast river under pressure. Their dedication and hard work in protecting the river will be rewarded by future visiting anglers who pay for fishing licences and support the local economy.

Trophy hunters should not be discouraged either - another species that lives in these waters is the Huchen. I thought it was a myth until I saw a local angler being pulled around the river, even going under at one point, as he struggled with a massive fish on his fly rod. Our group witnessed the whole event as we were crossing the river to go back home for the final time. It was an extraordinary sight as we watched our Jim wade upstream to help him - only to see the line go slack as the leviathan came close to the net. It was a monster of over 20lbs - a Huchen, also known as a Danube Salmon, hooked with a large nymph. This angler specialised in them - he had caught 17 in the last 4 years!

On our final night we played host to the England Fly Fishing Team. Exhausted after their long journey, they soon became a jovial lot as they were entertained by local folk singers and bottles of vodka. We gave them as many tips as we could but they clearly didn’t remember much of that evening - they failed to win the championships. If only they had listened!

On returning back to the UK after the long journey, about 12 hours door to door, I opened the fridge only to find… lashings as ham and cheese. Now, what did I say about when you’re hungry you’ll eat anything?

I went to bed hungry that night.

For more information contact Bill at Great Takes Travel www.greattakestravel.com or email info@greattakestravel.com. Group bookings recommended.