Hi Y'All...

Does anyone know, or have any idea/opinion about whether a slower, fuller-flex rod handles a DT line better than a faster, less-flex rod? By "better" I guess I mean casts it easier or maybe more efficiently?

Anyone?

Thanks All,
5/0

Well it all depends on what you are looking for. Each rod would handle the line in the way that it is made to do so, to say one will handle it better is all an opinion. A faster rod is ment to be just that faster, they will throw line farther and move it threw the air faster, a slower rod will takes less line to load so it is better for short distences, and finner presintations. I like a medium fast action rod like a sage SLT for my all around rod. If I was only going to fish the little water I would get somthing a little slower.

Are you looking for a new rod? Because I have all kinds of opinions

deleted

Hi 5/0,
Sorry so slow.
Matt gave a good answer.
I use DT lines on a lot of my bamboo. My kind of unwritten rule is if it is a "casting" style of taper (rod) then a DT, if it is a rod for "shooting" then I use a WF. Clear as mud?
Here are my thoughts, for what that may be worth.
One of the primary differences of old between bamboo and graphite rods, again IMO, is that bamboo is made to cast line and graphite is made to shoot line. Thus the differences between the DT and WF in my lining for rods description. With that said, to further muddy the waters, there are a number of bamboo rods that shoot line well as well as graphites that are primarily casting rods. (the Winston WT or IM6 rod is just such a rod)
Another use for the DT lines is where roll casting at shorter lengths is involved. Again, IMO, the DT lines do a better job or roll casting (out to 50' or so) than the WF lines.
The Wf lines shoot better, obviously due to the taper being primarily on the front of the line followed by "running line". (I know that is a generality, but it works for illustration purposes) The DT lines are a full taper front and back, which could also account for the comment made by Matt that the DT's seem to be a touch lighter than the WF lines. (In a given line weight if apples were apples and not some pomegranites thrown in , 30' of a 5 wt line SHOULD weigh the same in both, but frequently it doesn't)
OK, now that I have given a huge rambling answer that really didn't answer your question: Yes, again in my opinion, a DT would "feel" better on a full flex rod in general. Hope that helps. (????)
Dewey

Hi Y'All...

I knew Y'All would come though for me! Many, many Thanks All!

Agree with you, Matt, about the underlining of new, fast rods. I sort of backed into that idea when I noticed a couple "fast" rods marked "5-wgt" that I thought should have been marked 6-wgt., as their casting of a 5-wgt. line was actually a lot of work unless I wanted to tip cast about 25 ft.

Knew the DT is a sweet rollcaster as long as the fly isn't overweight. Always secretly a tinge disappointed with rollcasting WTs.

Dewey - your explanation makes great sense!! And having an IM6 4-wgt. it won't take long for me to bear it out with that rod. But I actually already suspected the link (though didn't know the casting vs shooting rod angle) between the more limber rods and the rocket-launchers. Reason being...
My Chico-era Powell SSL is a 905-2 one of Powell's earlier forays into graphite. And I'm convinced that the good Mr. Powell "played it safe" and built his first graphite rods to approximate known top-notch cane taper performance.
I recently picked up a new SciAng DT 5-wgt. at a super bargain price and when I used it on the Powell the combo took the centerstage like a Playboy Bunny.
What a sweet, almost effortless combinaion!
So I started the side by side comparison of the WF and DT lines on the Powell and right away I knew I'd be hunting you up to ask about it, Dewey!

But want to ask another question, Dewey. What is it about the taper that distinguishes a "casting rod" from a "shooting rod" ??? Is it just the depth of flex?
Would you say the T&T Paradigm is a "casting" rod?

Many thanks, All !

Best,
5/0

Hi 5/0,
I figured that would prompt a question.
Certain rods, depending on the taper of the rod, seem to carry line in the air better than others. On the opposite end, other tapers or rods seem to "want" more line constantly. In simple terms, that is, to me at least, the difference between a casting rod and a shooting rod. With the caveat that any rod CAN shoot line with a decent haul thrown in. It has always seemed to me that the casting style rods are more suited for delicate presentations, they seem to excel with smaller flies and tighter situations. The shooting style rods really can air out the line and are probably not the rods you would choose for spring creek work or narrow creeks and such.
With tapers, certain tapers roll cast better than others and how that is done by the maker is to put a "hinge" or small step down in the taper at certain points on the rod. This gives it that little kick when needed to give that line the extra little shot that really propels the line that extra little bit that rollcasting demands. The rod is just a fancy lever and where that particular extra leverage is applied can make a huge difference in feel.
With a progressive taper, that is one that has subtle or distinct changes throughout the length of the rod, a maker or designer can build strength or weakness whereever they feel it will best serve into the rod. The other type of taper is a straight taper that has a constant rate of change (drop) throughout the length of the rod.
On the progressive style, a significant drop "speeds up" the rod in that area as a flattening stiffens or slows up an area. (in general) It's all physics really. The drop in taper can be used to add a kick or speed up a normally slower section of the rod. Where the rub comes in is that as you change one section, corresponding changes need to be made in further or even prior sections to make up for the change you have added (or subtracted for that matter) It is not a static type of process.
Hope that helps somewhat.
Dewey

Hi Dewey...

" The other type of taper is a straight taper that has a constant rate of change (drop) throughout the length of the rod. "

The above would be more common among the slower rods and thus explain their smoothness and "forgiveness" of small cast/timing deviations?

I was casting (not rollcasts though) a #6 Halloween popper on the Powell with the DT and a 9-ft. 4-lb.-test level leader - and getting 45ft. of line beyond the tip with no sweat, and minimal haul.
Reminded me of that "rocking horse" feel of a good horse collected in an extended canter... sweet, sweet, sweet.

Best,
5/0

Hi 5/0,
LOL, I know what you mean.
It seems to me that the parabolic rods and some of the "slower" rods appear to rollcast easier than others. Pretty much in their design, I would guess.
There is an important thing to note here as far as differences between bamboo tapers and graphite tapers.
A hidden key to the graphite rods is the INTERNAL taper along with the external taper of the rod. Due to the fact that they are in essence, hollow sticks; graphite rods can also use an internal taper along with external. Just something to consider. Were it not for that, quite a few folks might be out with mics or calipers trying to match existing favorite rod tapers.(not saying that there aren't a few doing just that) Problem with graphite is the layup of the cloth, the layering, the interanl and external tapers make for lots of variables. Then you have whatever modulus or whether or not a particular scrim is used or not, as you can see, I would think it gets pretty complex.
Dewey

Hi Dewey...

I agree wholeheartedly, Amigo!! That's WAY too much to ask you to explain here on the Board. Just go ahead and send me a few of your cane 4-wgts. and 5-wgts. and 7-wgts. and I'll just figure it out through field testing.

Thanks Dewey!
5/0